Green Denim and Jeans - Sustainable Denim Manufacturing Practices

According to a study by NPD group, approximately 364 million pairs of ladies jeans were purchased between February 2018 and February 2019 across the globe.

The demand for denim is significantly increasing. Data shows the $16.4 billion industry for jeans in the U.S. grew 5% in 2018, driven largely by increased purchases within the women’s vertical.

Total market share of Denim in the world is 65 billion US dollar now and it will be doubled by 2030.

By 2030 the world population will reach at 9 billion thus the nature will struggle to meet the human needs and environment will receive huge negative impact of the fast fashion industry. The aim of the concept Green Denim is to ensure that the denims are made from safe and renewable materials and the old denims are processed into a new one. Green Denim is a sustainable denim manufacturing concept towards the aim of greener textiles.

What is Green Denim?

It is the concept to make the denim in more greener way from its very first step such as cotton cultivation to wash in laundry aiming the lowest use of water, chemicals & energy and ensuring the best possible long lasting facility and finally return to the biosphere in safely manner when it has no human use. It is also termed as more sustainable denim to make the jeans for all ages.

Use of organic cotton, post consumer waste cotton, recycle polyester, eco chemicals and dyes can reduce wastage of water and carbon emission footprints at some extend. 

In washing plant the use of latest machine like laser, ozone treatment and nostone can reduce the environmental impact of denim production.

While the retail implications of this rising demand and product interest are exciting for brands with denim collections, the uptick in denim production it entails also comes with considerable environmental impacts.

Sustainability in Denim shows that cotton cultivation and processing, for example, requires about 1,500 gallons of water to grow the 1.5 pounds of cotton necessary to produce a single pair of jeans. 

According to a study by Textile Exchange , to produce one pair of Jeans 10,850 liters water is required and also causes 32.5 KG carbon-dioxide gas emissions. If the Denims are produced with organic cotton then 3000 liters water can be saved as well as 2.5kg carbon-dioxide gas emission will be reduced.

On July 2016, The Ellen MacArthur Foundation, a nonprofit focused on the circular economy and sustainable practices, released a set of guidelines called the "Jeans Redesign," which struggles to address waste within the denim industry by setting minimum requirements around materials, durability and more. The promotes the principles of the circular economy and will work to ensure jeans last longer, can easily be recycled, and are made in a way that is better for the environment and the health of garment workers," their press release stated.

Big brands are taking note, as evidenced by news of Wrangler, Madewell and Gap signing on to participate in the foundation's call for more sustainable denim.

Wrangler is working to reduce the energy required to dye its denim products, Madewell released a line of fair trade-certified denim, and Gap is working to achieve 100% sustainably-sourced cotton for its denim items by 2025.

However, this transformation is not possible with a single brand or individual. To actually make the denim production greener, businesses, governments, citizens, and innovators have to join forces.  Producing more sustainable denim initiative has already brought many industry leaders together including GAP, Burberry, H&M, Nike, and Stella McCartney.


Consumers should support smaller brands who start off sustainably from day one and demand change from big brands who need to be held accountable.

At the end of the day, consumers vote with how they spend their dollars. If sustainability is what consumers want, they'll need to be willing to pay for it.

References:

• https://www.forbes.com/sites/kaleighmoore/2019/07/19/can-fashion-retailers-implement-sustainable-practices-as-demand-for-denim-grows/#7ef6dc475eda
• https://www.fashionrevolution.org/the-future-of-denim-part-1-how-the-humble-jean-is-redefining-sustainable-style/
• https://www.sustainabledenims.com/2019/11/produce-sustainable-denim-using-organic.html

Denim Washes Name and Description | Different Types of Denim Wash

Denim is famous name in the current fashion world. Fashion Trend changes frequently where denim is playing major role because of it's diversified wash and look. People of all ages can wear denim as a most comfortable and casual cloth.

In the mid of Twentieth Century Denim was produced first as worker wear because of it's durability. Later it became so popular among teenagers and now for all sorts of people. Initially the concept of denim production was to give longevity in wearing a cloth by the coal mine workers as they go though tough messy job. 

The style makes by the denim fabric is commonly known as Jeans. Levi and Straus first started the Jeans making which turns to a big fashion brand Levi's and now currently selling huge number of denims in USA. This pioneer company has some unique design and logo that are patented to be used by Levi's only.

The name "Denim" came from a city name of France "Surs De Nimes". Usually Denim fabrics are too heavy with strong twill line on the surface. They are made by following twill weave and mostly 3/1 and 2/1 twill are very common. We found most Left Hand Twill (LHT) in denim production but still some Right Hand Twill(RHT) are produced. Apart the twill weave now Denim manufacturers also producing this high demand fabric in sateen weave, dobby weave as well as same as knit construction. Sometimes, the fabric is produced as fake knit denim is called as Jogger Denim.

Raw Denim fabrics can't use directly so some sort of washes are required to make it wearable. The concept of Denim washing is to give the cloth a faded worn look. Beside the wet process of denim washing some dry processes are also implemented to provide natural look.

Name and Description of Different Denim Washes:

Raw Denim or Rinse Wash: Some good Brands take Raw Denim which is basically a rinse wash. Rinse means to wash a denim with cold water at room temperature for 5-10 minutes. Basically it helps to come out the unfix dyes from the surface of the fabric and the garment becomes compact due to absorb water. Some softening agents are used in Rinse Washing to achieve better hand feel of the garment. To meet the wet rubbing criteria is difficult in Rinse Wash.

Enzyme Wash: Enzymes are living particle that allows to cut the color during washing. Enzymes are used to produce dark to medium shade denim. Depending on it's concentration and wash time the faded looks are achieved. Desizing is very common step for denim washing which is also done by using Enzymes. It gives a even look on the surface of the garment. pH level and temperature are to be maintained in Enzyme wash because they work only at certain level. As wash experts says, almost all kinds of heavy wash have to go under enzymatic treatment.

Bleach Wash: Bleaching is done to provide the garment more faded and worn in look. Before going for bleaching some previous steps are to be done such as desizing and enzymatic treatment. Though per oxide bleaching is good for environment and the social workers always encourage this to use in washing but natural bleaching look can only achieve by chlorine bleaching. It provides medium to lighter shade based on the concentration and wash run time. The major difficulties are faced by the wash technician in case of bleach wash is to maintain required Tearing and Tensile Strength. 

Acid Wash Or Random Bleach Wash: Garments are to be treated with chemically soaked stone that gives random acid effect on the garment which is normally known as Acid wash or Random wash. Only pumice stones are used here and they are soaked in bleaching agent like Hydrogen Peroxide or Calcium Hypochlorite and then garments are washed along with the stones. Stones rub the garment at different places where it gives faded look. The most common feature of this wash is the uneven look of fading and each garment will be unique in terms of effect.

Wash With Resin: To make more dark and similar to Raw Denim resins are used in washing. First the garments are dipped in resin and then treated with other chemicals to achieve required shade. Resin here helps to retain the raw look of the garment and keep good rubbing properties. The main challenge of this kind of wash is to maintain Tearing Strength as resin makes the garment a bit harsh that leads low property of Tearing.

Tinting: Tint is a kind of dye that may be any kind of color. To achieve required shade wash experts use tint. It gives some aesthetic look and increase beauty of denim. The main challenge of tinting is to maintain Color Fastness to Washing and Appearance after Washing properties because tint might be removed fully after one or two home laundry wash with detergent.

Since Denim Washes have some dry processes also which is well described in Textile Aid.